In the phone app, under Dashboard you can see usage (energy) for all the detected devices, Kasa/Wemo/Wiser plugs, Hue lights as well as “Always On”, and if those add up less than 100% of total usage, “Other”.
In a similar fashion on the Now tab, the bubbles show devices above the standby threshold, Always On and if all devices + Always On is less than total, “Other”
I would like option to do one or more of the following:
A. Switch somewhere in settings to force “Always On” to be equal to zero. Put some safe guards on the switch, like an “are you sure” warning. I wouldn’t even mind if the app nagged me every week to make sure I really wanted the Always On to be pinned to zero.
B. Switch to exclude Always On in the Usage calculation. Start with the total usage, deduct everything known including the 3rd party (Hue, Kasa, etc.) and write the rest and Other. Still calculate Always On as before and when the switch is set to off, show the traditional Usage chart.
C. Switch to exclude Always On from the Now (Power) bubbles. Same concept as B.
I don’t know anything about what is going on under the hood with Sense, but I expect that A is much easier to implement than B or C. So while I would rather have B & C, I would happily accept A.
Here is my rationale:
After I had the Sense for a couple years, I noticed that greater than 50% of total consumption every month was Other + Always On. In many months this was close to 75%. One of my goals for buying Sense was to get an understanding of where I am consuming electricity, so I can make informed decisions about the tradeoffs involved. Sense helped with this, but it was limited to helping me make decisions around a small part of my electric bill.
So I set out to understand the Always On. I bought a Kill-O-Watt, a plug in device, similar in concept to a Kasa smart plug, except that has a display and shows real time power and accumulated energy. It has no wifi or other wireless interface and no memory. I began going around the house measuring the load of various devices. This helped - here is an example:
In April 2000, I bought a Yamaha receiver while I was living in Italy, when I moved back to the USA in 2003, I brought it with me and bought a little 500W transformer to make the 230V the receiver needs. I discovered, to my horror, that the transformer consumes ~30W 24/7 even if the receiver is off or unplugged. In fact the receiver turned off, but plugged in only consumed an extra 3W. I came to realize than over the last 15 years I had wasted close to 4000 kWh ($600) on this transformer. I bought the Yamaha parts to convert the receiver to 120V for about $150. Now the receiver consumes 3 W when off.
When I learned that Sense was supporting Kasa smart plugs, I bought a few of them. They worked great and really helped me to understand better where the energy was going. Then I bought some more, and then some more. Then someone came out with the Kasa Emulator for Home Assistant. With that I was able to use 240V measurement equipment, like an old TED 5000 or Shelly energy meters.
Today I have 19 real Kasa plugs and 10 emulated plugs. All of the emulated plugs are for things that a real Kasa can’t work with, such as 240V devices or devices that are hardwired in. I thought this would be useful, but it is actually worse since most of these 29 devices get partially double counted by Sense. For one reason or another (spotty wifi causes Kasa plug to lose connection, reboot of the Home Assistant) most of these 29 devices don’t get counted as part of the Always On.
So now the Always On is too high and the Other is too low. Most of the time Other is zero. This lowers the quality of information to make choices. Some of the choices I might with direct information are:
- change behavior : take shorter showers if the electric hot water tank is using more energy than I think it reasonable.
- fix something: if the fridge is using more and more energy - maybe I ought to clean the coils.
With indirect information such as “Other” or Always On, I can really only decide if I want to hunt down the contributing devices or not. But I need to accurately know how much is the total of Other to decide if I want to expend the effort to keep looking.
Right now, I can pretty much explain 90% of the Always On, but I don’t have high confidence that the “Other” category is accurate, I think it is much too small at this point. If I knew for sure that unknown devices were contributing to 30% of my electric bill, I would probably keep looking. If it was just 10%, I would call it good.
I suppose I could figure out the true “unknown / other” usage if I downloaded the data into Excel and did the math myself. I would rather Sense does it for me.