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Looking for feedback, I am only trying to get to the bottom of this issue.
Not trying to insult anyone.
Totally in the dark here. UPDATE
was it because I used a word that is in a “bad language” list ?
I used a term to refer to measuring with not the sense monitor.
The word I used might also be used in a heated discussion.
Is that why I was blocked automatically?
As discussed earlier in the thread I don’t think either of these can measure that much power.
I did find this interesting text on a Panasonic site:
Troubleshooting - The Microwave oven keeps tripping the circuit breaker.
The microwave oven may draw as much as 16.7A current at the initial stage per our specifications. The input current will gradually drop along with the cooking time (i.e. 16.0 A after 3 min; 15A after 5 min…). Our design takes the advantage of the 15A circuit breaker’s characteristic that they can withstand up to 20A current draw within the first 10 min in order to maximize the output power in the first few minutes of cooking. This is the typical length of programmed cooking time for most customers.
The 12.7A rating listed in the operating Instruction is the average power consumption. An inverter microwave oven does not provide a constant input current like conventional microwave ovens.
The circuit breaker tripping is likely caused either by the microwave oven being on a shared circuit with other appliances (the unit should be on a 15A circuit by itself) OR the circuit breaker is older and has become more sensitive (should be replaced).
For more information on microwave power and safety requirements refer to the microwaves operating instructions.
16.7 amps = 2004 watts
Sense measured 2007 == match
I understand the breaker can take it, but I am still puzzled how it is legal to pull 16.7 amps through a 15 amp rated outlet.
I guess 0-3 minutes 16.7 amp
3-5 minutes 16 amp
5-rest 15 amps equals the NEC code.
So Today I Learned!
all seems to be safe
Thanks all
I’m also surprised this is considered ok. I wonder if it would make sense to replace the receptacle with a 20 Amp one to give a little extra safety margin (to the receptacle).
There are a few auto-flagged terms to prevent moderators from having to delete spam messages and replies. That is one of them in hopes that we can encourage people to share their issue and see if it can be resolved, rather than writing it off completely.
IMHO: I have a big F.king POS built in microwave. My solution; small cheep 1KW/1cu-ft microwave oven. Huge microwaves ovens have low power densities. Power densities is oven volume over power input. (power is the RF output of the magnatron )
Why spend boat loads of money on a built in microwave when you can get the same performance from a cheep Wallyworld microwave for less then $200.
@babblefish26, I think your power density calculation is missing one factor. The energy waves emitted into the oven are reflected by the interior walls, floor, and roof of the appliance. These waves bounce around in there until being absorbed by the food (except for any that leak out the door, which is normally minuscule). If your food is small and your microwave is big, all the energy will still go into the food because there is nowhere else for it to go.
Large food takes longer to heat simply because the energy input is shared over more mass. This may lead to the impression that a large oven is not as fast as a small one. However, if you put the same amount of food in both a large and small microwave oven of equal wattage, they will heat equally well.
I am not sure if anyone addressed the “Why” a microwave is drawing more than the power advertised… The rating on a microwave is the power at the emitter and not the power (AC) used to create that energy. The difference between the two is the efficiency of the device itself. Kudos for spotting this. You are now on a path for identifying energy savers. i.e. LEDs vs incandescent lighting, both create light expressed in lumen’s.
