Ability to see 240 vs 110

I’m having trouble figuring out certain devices detected. It says it recognized my electric dryer 99% but I don’t believe it correct. I have it listed as “this is a guess” but I was thinking that when sense identifies a new device is it possible to tell if its 240 vs 120? If so it would really help narrow down detected devices for the home owner and technically we wouldn’t be training Sense. I was thinking if this is possible to maybe add it to the screen that shows the new device details.
For my home I only have a few things on 240 such as water heater, heat pump, Dryer, Stove and Electric Vehicle. If I knew the new detection was 240 or 120 it could help with faster identification. A device drawing 3500+ watts COULD be 110 or 240 I believe. If I had a detection of 3500+ watts but knew it was 110 then I could eliminate the bigger players and focus on looking at the 120 items.
I have a variable speed blower with heat pump and uses resistive coil backup so for example is this extra 3500 watts a 240 leg is something that used 120?
There’s no such thing as stupid questions :slight_smile:

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generally speaking, 120v * 15A = 1800W, so anything more than that, kinda has to be a 240v device.


A 3,500 watt device is very unlikely to be 110v, because that would be 30 amps. While there are such circuits, they are mainly industrial and very rare in homes.

At 220v, your 3,500 watt draw would be only 15 amps, a fairly modest 220v device. As Sense indicates a 220v 30amp draw is highly likely to be an electric dryer…that’s what my Kenmore draws and is a common power level for such devices. Standard water heaters draw 4,500 watts and heat pumps vary all over the place depending on size.

Unfortunately for me, Sense hasn’t properly detected my dryer after almost two years.

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Interesting. Thank you

I agree with @Edison517 . Typically high-power devices are running at 240V. Otherwise the high current draw (Watts = Volts × Amps) would heat up the electric wires too much, and that is a fire hazard. That is why most outlets (and the wires feeding them) are rated at 15 Amp … not more.

In fact, if you open any of your electrical gang boxes (outlet vs. switch), you’d notice that the wires feeding the light switches are typically thinner (higher gauge) than those in the outlets (lower gauge). Light fixtures draw little current as compared to vacuums and iron …