Adding my pool with the Additional Clipons…

I want to monitor my pool and it’s on a separate box, that branch’s off my main service with a 240 breaker.

Is it a good application to use the sensors on this ?

Will it monitor accurately, even if the pool branch has some 120 and 220 at the branch end?

1 Like

It should be accurate if you use both CTs for the 240V circuit. I’m using a signal CT for a branch that goes to a subpanel that is mostly balanced 240V with a little 120V on one leg. Because I’m using a single CT, Sense misses the 120V component.

1 Like

Wait, you can use one CT for 240v?
AM I understanding you right?

If thats the case I could use one for one of the pool legs, and one for a leg of the AC?

If the 240V load is balanced (no neutral), you can use a single CT for a 240V device/circuit, like my Tesla HPWC. And as I suggested, you can even do it with a nearly balanced circuit (limited 120V leg), if you are willing to give up some accuracy. Sense just doubles the current/power flowing through the single CT, when you select 240V mode.

Ok, I have ordered my CT clamps. Where are instructions on setting them up in software app for two split 240v devices.? Also, other than being consistent with both, which way for them to face inside the panels.Thanks

Follow the link below all the way through. When you get to step 9, follow the “Monitoring two loads ?” link. There will be an option for 240V/240V in that document.

So I read all the details, and to turn off the breakers to the loads I’m putting the sensors on. But when I power things back on, do i turn the new loads on one at a time and label them? I haven’t seen any info on that?

Also, I’m assuming it doesnt lose what’s needed discovered so far. So if I add one to the hot water heater and its been discovered before, I would need to add that discovery to that sensor, yes?

This will be part of the installation flow in the app, which takes you through “naming” each device as you’re setting it up and flipping the breaker. You’ll be able to do this once you set-up the Dedicated Circuit Monitoring via “Connected Devices” in the app.

If Sense has already detected (or partially detected) a device that you will be monitoring with Dedicated Circuits, you can “tell” Sense by selecting the Dedicated Circuit Device (after set up) and clicking on the gear in the top right corner. Then Manage > What’s Connected to This? and select the devices that Sense has detected natively to prevent duplication / over-reporting.

1 Like

So would this work with an Air Handler and dryer as well?

Would love to be able to monitor both. Can only monitor Air Handler now.

Yes, you can monitor two 240V loads with the Flex Sensors. But only if both 240V loads are balanced (no neutral wire) or if you are willing to tolerate some error - for example, the air handler might use 240V for the motor, but have a neutral mainly for supplying 120V power to the controller electronics. The dryer likely has the same - a 120V circuit that powers the brains and perhaps the tumbler motor.

To guess the error, one would have to look at the circuit diagram for each.

1 Like

BTW, this is working fantastic. My water heater and my variable speed pool pump are being monitored great !

I do have a question though. It gave me a notice about the pools always on value, based on what it is saying, how much should I set it for, to give it a little headroom?

It is around 20-21 w.

See picture

2 Likes

You want to pick a value that’s just a little above the Always On value, maybe 25W.

1 Like

Why would you want pool pump on all the time :man_shrugging:t3:

It’s not on all the time, it has vampire draw of around 20w, since an automation controller is always on. So I will be setting a threshold on the Sense to consider 20w as OFF. And add the 20w to my always on bucket.

I think Sense will automatically add that 20W, or whatever it measures/calculates, to the known Always On for that measured DCM device.

I guess most of have the old standard system where the electrical is killed completely outside of on times with no overhead. 20 watts certainly isn’t going to kill your budget, but at 16 hours idle a day, it’s a kilowatt hour every 3 days so 10 kilowatt hours a month for nothing.