Custom build outlet plug for device detection

To be clear, you are running 240 Volts through a plug and an outlet rated for 120V?

my house came like that, this particular outlet is serving 2 hot lines (L1 and L2), i am soldering more to attach them directly on the minisplits

Andre, bud … I love your ambition and you like to tinker with things and come up with solutions. Reminds me of myself. BUT … what you are doing is extremely dangerous.

That is a 120v 15amp receptacle. It is not meant for anything more and it is definitely not meant to have a hot connected to a labeled neutral. This is a serious fire risk. Even if your house is wired that way, which means they actually had to bring 2 hots into that receptacle, it’s wrong. That is not the correct receptacle.

It’s beyond wrong! I’m going to lock this topic temporarily.

We’re not going to remove this post, but we are going to add the disclaimer that this is not a recommended solution because of the potential fire hazard it could pose. Our hardware leads acknowledged that this is a serious fire risk and advise against this approach.

We have product developments planned in the future to expand our current integration capabilities - I would recommend holding out for those.

@andre Personally, I would recommend scrapping this build and listening to the feedback from some of the community veterans. I admire your drive and curiosity, but I’m very hesitant to condone homebrew solutions that involve electricity because, at the end of the day, we value your safety and health more than a few extra bubbles in your Sense app.

Good thing you reversed this decision Justin… You were about to lose a participant… Folks need to express and show what they please within the subject… Please PM me when you get a chance…My 2 cents… Gerry…

I find a source that says the residential service in Mexico is either 120V single phase, or 220V three phase with 127V on any of the three to neutral. It looks like your outlet is one hot line, one neutral and a ground. That is not a 240V circuit, and your custom device is not running on 240V (or 220V) here.

Putting a current transformer on each leg doubles the reading; you should just use one leg for a single phase circuit. (If you were measuring a 220/240 volt circuit you might want to measure each leg because there may be loads inside the device that tap off from one leg to the neutral).

I sometimes jury rig AC circuits for testing something, but I use standard AC wires from extension cords or wires stripped out of romex. I don’t think the wire you’ve used has decent insulation for AC use, and the exposed traces are very hazardous.

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that’s correct, you usually have 120v, however I requested 220v for the solar compatibility, I just recorded this video:

measuring voltage as much as I could, voltage coming from the street and voltage going to an inverter AC system, and my device attached as you said on each leg.

At least for the purpose of my goal, to help my sense device keep track of most of my difficult to discover devices, I think I got there.