I think it’s a LAN and LAN (lan bridge) issue. Once the handshake is broken, it can’t re-establish it without the sense and the Kasa re-initiating it. The HS300 just looks for the internet , which is why the Kasa app will still work. You could duplicate your SSID and password at another location and the HS300 would still work.
At one point I tracked for about a month the communication the Kasa plugs had with outside destinations and it’s appeared ridiculous how much out sourcing TP-link does for their smart plugs. It appeared every 5 days down to the second the plugs are going thru some sort of DHCP renewal initiated by AWS cloud commands. As long as that doesn’t fail, all should be fine, however if it does fail you’ll loose your LAN bridge. My HS300 / sense connection was dropping once every 4-5 weeks (5-7 5-day cycles) my KP115/125 was dropping right at 5days.
I had another sense user suggest this…. If you disabled your WAN traffic on the HS300, your Kasa app will work locally and your sense/ Kasa LAN bridge should be much more stable.
I guess I am out of ideas other than suggesting what @kevin1 stated earlier:
Turn OFF ‘NDI’ in the SENSE APP and turn it back ON. That suggestion helped me.
I ran a MS-DOS program that performed a reoccurring ping test every 21 minutes for several weeks and plotted my data to see if there was a particular time my HS-300 was failing to connect. After my test, I did move some of my network equipment to different locations to help with the WiFi signal. At least I now have a base line to use in comparing any future problems.
I just assigned my devices to LAN only, resaved IP. Then the one I want to turn an off work in the sense app. They will only work in the Kasa app while Im home. i assume the “alexa/ google home” function also wouldnt function. This absolutely fixed mine which most the plugs dropped ever 5 days on the dot, the HS300 dropped every few weeks.
I have had my sense meter since 2019 and never had a network issue with it. I’m guessing that Tp-link is shoving out security updates. I’m sure TP-Link is one of the more secure wi-fi plugs out there, however they have been hacked into several time. Some of the smart plugs have no encryption at all, some have very weak encryption, some have no encrypted local.
From my understanding sense meter uses all proprietary encrypted data, not saying its impossible to get into… I just have not heard about it, and I’m sure they are being attacked everyday. Im sure you can just google how to hack into a kasa plug and how to hack into a sense meter and see what I mean. No IoT company wants to be the one that some random person on reddit gives a play by play to get into their device.
I purchased/installed my KASA HS-300 on Jan. 2019.
My firmware version has remained the same for the last three years (1.0.21)
I have received several new smart phone KASA APP versions during that period.
My current phone KASA APP is V# 2.36.0 build 1035
Really interesting that this happens to us at the same time I have two hs300 in my house and lose communication with one of them at the end what I did was restart the sense monitor from the breaker panel and now is working fine.
Not that this is comparable to your issues with HS300, but I have been watching select Kasa devices like a hawk (a pair of problematic HS110s, 2 of my 3 HS300s, plus my lone KP115) both from my network (Ubiquiti) and from a Sense perspective. A few days ago I did detect a simultaneous Sense outage on two of my HS300 for a little more than an hour on Feb 15th.
Looking more closely from the Sense side, it looks like all 3 of my HS300s all went offline for the same time from about 9:20AM until 10:35AM. Very weird that all went offline at the same time, and self corrected a little over an hour later.
Came to this thread because one of my HS-300 is a bit far away from the AP and occasionally loses WIFI connection, but usually it reconnects quickly.
The thing that scares me about the first post here is a HS-300 with a toaster, a countertop oven, and and UV cleaner plugged into it at the same time. I am 100% sure that running (accidentally) e.g. the toaster and oven at the same time will exceed the 1875W rating of the strip. Seems unwise.
Nearly all power strips are rated at this wattage because they are all connected to a single 15A wall receptacle. Even if the strip was rated for 30A, the power source could not safely supply more than 15A.