Dedicated Sensor seems to be problematic?

I moved the dedicated circuit monitoring to my oven and my dryer a couple days ago and noticed that the sensor seems to possibly be bad. The reason I say so, is because it was reading 11KW consumption on my dryer, which is running on a 30 AMP circuit. Also when I tried to monitor a single wire on the same circuit, I was getting 5KW.

Support seems to tell again and again that the clamp is open, but I have literally removed the cover plate, and monitored the load while the appliance was running, and ensured that the clamp was closed. On each of the two wires, I was reading 5KW+, and combined 11K

Anyone else had an issue like this and how did they deal with it ?

My sensors were procured when sense launched the FLEX sensor and had a promo going on to buy the sensor for say $35.

Clamp a single Flex CT (Current Transducer, aka DCM - Dedicated Current Monitor) on a circuit with known high usage (at 120V) according to the Main CTs.

e.g. Let’s say you have a kettle in the kitchen. Switch it on and off and you should see 1kW or so peaking in the Power Meter. Clamp the DCM (Flex) on that circuit and see what you get. Matches? Obviously the higher the current the easier to match.
Do the same for the other Flex CT. Matches?

There are other ways you could use the Main CTs to check the calibration on the Flex CTs but they are a bit more involved. Start with the above and report back.

1 Like

Thank you for the suggestion. So I did perform the test, and the results are interesting for sure. One of the things that I did not do is re-do the configuration to tell that the clamp is for monitoring 120V circuit.

I just moved the clamp to a circuit where I have a water kettle. I then installed a new KP115 device and waited ( under 30 seconds) to ensure that the ‘new plug’ ( I know very imaginitive), was now visible in Sense

When I set a pot of water to boil in the Kettle, I did notice that the DCM was showing ~ 55W while the plug was showing as 1,380W

As I was writing this, I realized, maybe I do need to re-confiugre, but decided to wait and hear back from you.

Yes you will nee to reset the DCMs for 120V individual circuits. Once you’ve done that and you know the kettle circuit you’re dealing with you could put both of the DCMs on that same circuit and check them at the same time.

I was about to do the same, but then I realized both the Oven and Dryer have control panels which work on 120V only, and my set-up was configured as 240V Only. As a safe measure, I decided to re-seat the monitors (switch them while I was doing so) and then re-configure the dedicated circuit monitoring as 120/240v Devices, and now it seems that the readings are what I would expect them to be.

1 Like

Universal truth: taking broken things apart and putting them back together again often fixes them … except for hearts.

Also Support often isn’t as helpful :smiley: