Power Use Not Showing Up

#1

I’ve had my Sense for about one week, I see most of my devices although it has only identified two (water heater and dishwasher).

The main issue I have is my main heater is not being detected. Detected as in, the wattage increase does not increase at all, also my stove does not show up at all.

My upstairs heater (two systems outside, upstairs one is smaller) detected at around 250 watts, and my microwave is right above my stove and is picked up.

I have no idea why, I have reset the breaker box.

#2

Are you saying that when your main heater or stove kicks in, you don’t see an corresponding uptick in the Power Meter display ?

Your breaker box hookup looks OK. When you go to the Sense monitor menu, you see reasonable voltages and power on each, right (near 120V, 500-5,000W) on each ?

#3

This is what I see, and yes I don’t see an upspike. My house currently is using about 1230 watts

#4

Are you saying 1230W because of the Sense data or from electric meter ? I only ask because I’m wondering if you have a separate parallel panel that feeds the devices you are not seeing in the Power Meter. Are you sure your stove and main heater have breakers in this box ?

Your Sense Monitor display looks OK, though usually the two legs should be a little better balanced, if electricians balanced your wiring…

Not to fear, mine are often off by quite a bit as well.

#5

I gave the reading from my Sense. My breaker box is labeled “heater” and when I hit the switch it turns it off.

My main fear isn’t my stove, it’s my heater. Mainly because that and my water heater are my two biggest power eaters and I’m not able to track it.

It also makes me wonder what else isn’t being detected.

Edit: also I think it might of been not well balanced due to mainly one device was using most of the power. I’ll try to turn on a bunch of stuff and test it again to see.

#6

Looking at your photos (good job taking them) I see a relatively small number of breakers for a house and almost all of them are 20’s. There are also two 30 amp 2 pole breakers and a 25 amp 2 pole. One of those would be typical for a water heater but a range generally has a 50 amp 2 pole breaker. I also don’t see a main service disconnect in this panel so that must be somewhere else and maybe your range is connected there and therefore its usage is not seen by sense. I hope that this helps.

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#7

I haven’t checked to make sure my oven is on the breaker but everything else in my house seems to be.
Tomorrow I’m going to find out, but as I said earlier Im pretty sure my heating system is because I can turn it off with my breaker box.

I don’t know where the main service disconnect is, I don’t see anywhere that it would be but I can look around more (just moved in 3 weeks ago).

I will also turn off all my breakers, and see of my outside power meter is reading any usage, and then also see if I can turn on my stove. Although like I said, I’m pretty sure it’s on the breaker box (top right I think)

#8

I see (2) 30amp and (1) 25amp 240v breakers… based on your desc, you have 2 hvac systems… if the 30s are the condensers, and maybe the 25 is your water heater… then there isn’t anything left big enough for a stove… is your stove electric? if its got flames (burners), its gas…

typically here in CA:
condenser (a/c ground unit) is 240v @ 25-50amp depending on unit size
furnace is 120v @ 15-20amp + gas use
electric dryer is 240v @ 30amp
electric stove is 240v @ 40amp or more
electric water heaters can be 240v 20+amp depending on size of heating elements

also, I’m no electrician, but those 240v wires look a bit small… around here 240v @ 25~30amp is more like 10ga… those pics look like 14ga (maybe 12ga, they might be a little bigger than the other wires) on 240v breakers… please correct me if I’m wrong… googling it, 25amp can be 12ga, but 30 shouldn’t be less than 10ga…

another thing I noticed, your sense monitor power is coming from (2) single 20amp breakers… when I consulted an electrician before my install, he advised that (2) singles are not a true 240v and I should use a proper 240v breaker… I’m not a electrician, but it might make a difference… googling it, there are examples going either way… but main concern appears to be if 1 side trips, the other side is still hot…

besides my concerns, I think @sol is right, with no main service disconnect in pics, this may be a sub-panel and there may be other breakers elsewhere…

#9

I tested my heater and stove again and it looks like they aren’t on my power breaker.

I have looked around and I can’t seem to find another panel anywhere else in my house. Have to work soon but will look around more this afternoon, very strange.

Edit: More photos of equipment outside of my house, no idea if any of this has more stuff inside and most of it is closed with bolts.

#10

Look in the panel below your power meter. The latch is at the bottom of it. I have a panel outside by my meter that has a few breakers and feeds the inside panel. I have Sense installed on the outside panel.

#11

The box is locked unfortunately, but I was able to get it cracked open some and there are breakers inside. Sadly I can’t really see what they are, and my power company charges me if I open it for some reason.

I don’t mind getting my Sense reinstalled over there but I don’t know if that will work. I’m guessing that’s the “main panel” and the one inside my house would be the sub panel.

That’s my uneducated guess.

I would attach more photos but I guess I was flagged for linking to my Google photos… So I’ll attach this one crappy photo peaking inside my box

Edit: If my Google Knowledge is correct, my outside box is my main breaker box and inside my garage is my service panel. If this is correct, my service panel would feed into the main breaker box, meaning I have to my my Sense outside?

#12

Hard to tell what those breakers are. What kind of lock is on that panel?

#13

Local company lock, I could break it but there is a 25$ fine.

#14

The latch circled doesn’t appear to have a lock. That panel should lift up from the bottom once the latch is opened.

image

#15

In one of those pics, your breaker labels are showing, 1 marked “5kw”… Do you have solar? Or is that some sort of strip heater?

If you have solar, and don’t have the solar kit, your numbers are always going to be off until you get the solar kit and allow sense to keep consumption and production separate… Without it, your sense is not getting accurate numbers…

#16

Yeah, I can get the bottom open but the top is closed and the top part has overlap. So you have to open that one first.

I think I can unscrew the hinges on the left side and slide the door down to get it off.

#17

Worth a shot trying.

#18

Betting that is your main panel where some of the big ticket breakers also live ! Good luck.

#19

@mcgurn9001

if that’s got hinges on the left side, you are looking at it all wrong…

as @ken2 points out, you have a latch at the bottom… you swing the lock plate (front of cover) up on the cover… then the lock hoop (on the bottom of box) rotates under the box and the cover drops down and opens to you… that’s your main panel…

I’ve had one of those before… tricky buggers… lol

#20

Just got home and tried what you said, I tried that already but this time with a little more elbow grease. Popped right open. ImI’m going to give my electrician a call because I have no idea what I’m doing passed this.

Should I have then antenna sticking out of a punch hole? Or do I leave it inside the box (away from the elements.

Also, thank all of you for all of this help. It was really twisting my brain.

EDIT: Only problem I see now is there is no extra double pull slot. Any suggestions? Can I add it into something that already has a double pull?