Should I Delete Oven After Fixing Disconnected Heating Coil?

I recently discovered that the crimp connector to one of the two resistive heating coils in my oven had burnt out (images below). i.e., the oven was only operating with one coil for a period of time. For reference, it was the lower oven coil of a GE JB256DM1BB oven/stove-top combo unit.

Should I delete the ‘Oven’ device now that I’ve reconnected this coil? It seems obvious that the power signature of the oven would have been notably altered during this time. It’s hard to tell exactly when the coil became disconnected (I’m spoiled in terms of not having to do much of the cooking), but I’d estimate it was no more than a month ago. I’d imagine that there was a period where this coil was working intermittently based on the images. I don’t see anything definitive in the devices power meter data from Sense to tell me exactly when the connection to this coil was lost.

Was this month or so of this coil not drawing power as intended enough to spoil what Sense had already learned about this device over the past ~3-4 months (Sense installed on July 1st, 2020)?

Does the detection/learning algorithm continually update it’s records for each device, such that these erroneous readings from when the coil was disconnected will eventually be discarded? Or is new data it collects just continually averaged with all data previously collected? I get that even with a continuous running average this month or so of bad data will eventually become insignificant in the long term. Regardless, just knowing that this incorrect impression of my oven’s power signature plays any part of how Sense understands my oven to operate may make me want to force a fresh record for this device. The variable manner in which power to the two coils is modulated based on temp settings and operation modes (i.e. bake, broil, clean, etc.) makes me feel like an accurate device history may be important for Sense to properly detect and track the oven’s operation. Thoughts?
(Images for Reference) Connector and Coil Terminal Damage From Intermittent Contact
I assume connector was either defective/loose or just not properly installed on the coil terminal from the factory (oven’s a relatively cheap hardware store special). Was able to verify the coil was good via a continuity measurement (IIRC, resistance reading stabilized around 18Ω). Cleaned the corroded coil terminal up, replaced the crimp connector, and reinstalled. Checked other connections, walked away with my fingers crossed.

Unless you’re seeing detection issues with your existing ‘Oven’ device, I’d suggest leaving this be. The fact that you don’t see anything definitive with power meter variances before and after the issue leads me to wonder how big of an impact this had on the consumption of your oven while operating (open question, I’m uncertain and defer to our Community appliance experts.)

I might recommend taking a look at the technical specs for your make/model, which I think I’ve found here:

From there, you can usually find the consumption details in the technical specs.

Bake Wattage 2585W
Broiler Wattage 3410W

I would take a look at your Oven device power meter and see what the typical wattage draw is and how it compares to the technical specs if you’re looking into more insight on when it broke.